Category: finance

Why I haven’t started tracking my monthly expenses – and why I need to start

why-i-dont-track-expensesIt almost seems like keeping tracking of your expenditures is a prerequisite for improving your financial self. For a blogger that writes about money and finance, not documenting expenditures is downright heresy. Well, I am guilty as charged.

I don’t track my monthly expenses.

There, I’ve said it. Now, how can someone be financially conscientious if they don’t even know how much goes out of their bank account monthly?

 

The beginning.

I wasn’t always like that. In medical school, I meticulously tracked my bank account and credit card statements. It was like checking daily I/O’s in pre renal patients on the floor…only easier. I essentially had no income other than my student loans. Sure, I tutored on occasion but I’d say that I earned less than $100 during my entire 4 years of medical school. The expenses were also easy to track:

  • rent payments
  • groceries
  • furniture from craigslist
  • occasional bar tab / restaurant meals
  • the new pair of shoes I bought

I sure as hell didn’t let my balance run close to zero before the next semester’s loan disbursements came.

 

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In residency, I slacked off slightly, but still kept tabs on my paycheck and expenses. I did not contribute to my 401k/403b during residency for several (perhaps unjustifiable reasons: (1) My rent consumed about 60-70% of my monthly stipend, (2) I thought that the investment options available sucked, (3) I used excess money to repay my student loans.

However, I made sure that at the beginning of the month that I would have enough to pay next month’s rent. I wasn’t married yet, so I didn’t have to contribute to my future spouse yet. (:-P).

The present and the problems.

As an attending, I did open a Personal Capital and Mint account. (referral link on the sidebar if you want to help out the website!). It’s a great asset management tool with cool pie graphs, line charts, and even an retirement planner. This is where some of the hassles emerged:

  1. I had separate accounts for myself and my spouse. This means two different logins. Unfortunately, some of our joint accounts overlapped, it adding up both sides made it seem like we had more money than we actually did!
  2. Many of the accounts did not synchronize well. I suppose that this comes in part from the ever-evolving security mechanisms in online vendors. I had a hell of a time with my employer’s 401k (ADP) and HSA accounts not synchronizing at all.
  3. I buy many store gift cards. This is mainly a means to save some money and earn credit card points along the way. Once a year, my local grocery store sells $100 store cash cards for $90. I essentially buy hundreds (maybe even a thousand) dollars worth of grocery store credit at 10% off. I do the same with certain gas station cash cards whenever there is a sale. What this means is that all of my store category expenditures are front loaded. While I probably deplete the funds within a year, it does make it tricky to follow all of the expenses under Personal Capital.
  4. I am lazy. If you simply click on “Expenses” in Personal Capital, you can get a YTD tally of all of your expenses. However, many of these transactions are erroneous categorized. Many of my bank transfers from my checking account to savings account defaults as a “check” and not necessarily a true expense. Some of the checks I write need to be edited for specificity. How long would it take to keep these numbers correct? Probably 10-15 minutes a month. Why don’t I do it? I can’t be bothered! I need automation!

 

The future.

The maintenance hassles in Personal Capital may only amount to 3 hours of my life my entire year. Probably not a huge deal to go through. I probably will have to contact the customer support staff to tweak the logins from time to time. It’ll be my New Year’s resolution.

What will I gain from it? For one, I’d have a better idea knowing how much I spend annually. MMM spends $25,000 annually for a family of 3. I’m pretty sure I spend at least $100,000 for a family of two. Wouldn’t it be nice to see how high earning doctors can still be budget conscious and tweak their savings rate?

How meticulously do you track your expenses?

(Photo courtesy of Flickr)

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How to fund a Backdoor Roth IRA

How to fund a Backdoor Roth IRA

It’s that time of year where we prepare for our routine investment account maintenance. For me, one task is reminding myself how to fund a Backdoor Roth IRA. I do this at the beginning of every year in January, so that I can put my funds into the market as soon as possible.

Here are the basic criteria and rationale to fund a Backdoor Roth IRA:

  1. If your gross income exceeds $117,000 if filing single or $184,000 if filing married jointly, then you should proceed with a Backdoor Roth IRA. Otherwise, you can just contribute to a Roth IRA directly.
  2. The Roth IRA offers another “bucket” to invest. You contribute post-tax dollars into this bucket, but there is no tax on any growth in the bucket whenever you take the money out.
  3. This money can go to your heirs tax-free.
  4. It’s not a huge amount ($5500 for 2016), but the amounts do add up throughout your working career, and the potential growth over time is valuable.
  5. This works best if you don’t have any Traditional IRA funds already. The Roth IRA conversions will take into account what you have tax-deferred. If you have Traditional IRA funds, then you will be taxed on any earnings that you convert.

I have my Roth IRA account in E-Trade. It just happened to be there when I used to buy individual stocks. It has a decent web interface with decent market analysis posts under the “Research” headings.  If you already have a Vanguard or TD Ameritrade accounts, those also work fine as well. My rule of thumb is to minimize the number of accounts you have across the board for simplicity. After a certain age, you start to forget things! ?

 

Step 1. Open a Traditional Non-Deductible IRA.

On E-Trade, I select ‘Open a New Account’. From there I select a Traditional IRA. I also keep a savings account on E-Trade, and when the time comes to fund a Roth IRA, I usually transfer funds from my outside bank accounts to my E-Trade Savings Account.

For 2017, the maximum amount that you can fund is $5500 if you are under age 50. Don’t forget to fund your spouse’s account the same way!

Step 2.

Let the funds clear and do nothing. I tried to jump to Step 3, and E-Trade gave me an error message. I remember sitting on this for about 1-2 weeks on E-Trade.

 

Step 3. Apply for a Roth IRA conversion.  

On E-Trade, I usually go to the landing page for conversion: https://us.etrade.com/landing/Roth_Conversion I log in, and click through. Fidelity also has a similar mechanism. Since the funds that you have placed in your account have not been invested yet, you should still have $5500 (or $6500) that you funded previously.  If you already have an existing Roth IRA with the custodian, you can select that account at this time and combine the funds together.

Afterward, you can either close your Traditional IRA or leave it empty for next year. E-Trade allows me to keep the account open. You can then decide how to invest the funds in your Roth IRA!

What other tips do you have for Backdoor Roth IRA’s? 

How much net worth should be put into your house?

net worth homeGiven the easy access to credit that we have in the United States, it is easy to purchase a house that commands several times your salary. Physicians are prime customers for lenders, as we are low-risk clients who have high earning potential and stable jobs. Easy access to credit is also a curse for us, since it is incredibly easy to overextend our earning potential to buy a McMansion.

 

Consider your home as a stable asset.

Those who encourage us to maximize the amount of our net worth into our primary home (not just real estate) really seem to argue that our home is a stable asset. A house is unlikely to lose its value overnight. Even if it burns down or gets wiped out by a hurricane (assuming you have hurricane insurance), you can recover a large portion of the loss through insurance. We need a place to live anyway, so keeping part of your assets under your roof is a logical approach, right? If you need to withdraw cash out of your property, you can obtain a home equity line of credit (HELOC). Your home provides you with an additional “bucket” to store your wealth.

 

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How liquid is a home asset?

While you can withdraw your assets in your home from HELOCs and reverse mortgages, it may only be practical for one-time uncommon large-ticket purchases. It’s not like you can cash out your home to pay for hospital bills and a new car to move into an RV without having to sell your home outright. You can withdraw equity in the home relatively quickly, but you can’t unload it completely without selling it. And as we all know, you can’t force your home to be sold. What if you ended up getting a new job in a new city? Many doctors change jobs after purchasing a new home and end up having to pay a mortgage for a house that they can’t even enjoy.

The liquidity of homes are highly variable, even within the same market. Homes in the Bay Area move like hotcakes—I have a friend who sold his house in Burlingame, CA within a week after listing. Other homes in San Francisco can be sold before hitting the market. In contrast, higher priced homes (>$500,000) in second and third tier markets can sit for years before being sold. One of my friends in Iowa has had his $550,000 home in a Grade A school district sit on the market for over a year without any buyer interest, but another friend whose $600,000 updated home in a Grade B- school district in the same city sell within a few weeks.

What I’ve concluded so far is that you can’t rely on your home to be much of any asset. You have to get lucky and sell it quickly (preferably cash deal) in order to withdraw all of your equity in it.

 

How do I approach home ownership in terms of net worth?

Because of relatively instability in where we live and how our primary jobs turn out, I don’t consider a primary home an investment, only a luxury. While I am building equity while paying down my mortgage, I have not seen much of a tax benefit yet from tax deductions yet. Additionally, the cost of owning a home for me has been significantly higher than renting. I have to deal with broken fixtures, lawn work, and regular upkeep costs that I would not have had to worry about in a rental.

Ultimately once I own my property outright, I can breathe easier about the rest of the expenses. I do not reside in a highly competitive real estate market, so I do not expect my property value to rise significantly if I decide to sell and move out.

Do you intend to keep any part of your net worth in your primary residence?

 

(Photo courtesy of Flickr)

Other ways to get money for your house – Doctor Loans

doctor loans alternative mortgage

This post is the fourth part in the series on mortgages and my experiences:

My local mortgage lender reintroduced me to the notion of getting a doctor loan. I had heard about these options from financially savvy doctors back in residency, but I never really learned whether these loans were actually prudent options. In general, the perks are as follows:

  • Option to put down less than 20% of the purchase price of your home without having to buy private mortgage insurance. I would estimate that this would save you about $1,000 – $3,000 a year.
  • Ability to borrow up to 95% of the purchase price of your home. This means that you’d only have to put down $50,000 for a $1 million home!
  • Approval of loan with only proof of an employment contract.
  • Better rates than traditional loans if you are going for a jumbo mortgage

 

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Depending on your lender, there may still be other options. All of the lenders who I spoke to stated that borrowers would still need to have a good credit score above 700.

When should I consider a Doctor Loan?

In the most extreme case, no financially cognizant person should obtain a doctor loan with the intention of overextending your earning power. For example, if you are a neurosurgeon starting your first job that brings in $1.4 million of income annually, you could reasonably get a doctor loan on a $1 million house with a $50,000 downpayment. Assuming that you can hold your job for the next few years, you should be in decent financial shape.

In contrast, everything else belong is a questionable situation. The average white-collar professional whose salary is in the $50,000 range may actually own a house that’s five times his annual salary ($250,000). Similarly a doctor who earns $250,000 annually  might be able to “afford” a $1.25 million home. Through a doctor loan, you might be able to buy this home without having to cough up $250,000 for a traditional mortgage downpayment.

Will the lender underwrite such a loan for you? Probably. Most likely. Prior to the housing crisis, doctors could get approved for loans easily with very little oversight. It’s a little bit more difficult now, but is still easier than what the average consumer will experience simply because you as a doctor, you should have a stable job.

Should you use the doctor loan in this scenario? Probably not.

Ultimately it depends on what lifestyle you need to live at the moment and how you would fare otherwise.

You know that you’ll definitely be living in the same place for the next five years.

If you are a high income physician who knows that you’ll definitely stay at your job for at least the next five years, you can entertain the ideal of buying a house. Let’s say that you really don’t have enough in your savings account just yet to make the standard 20% downpayment…perhaps the doctor loan is for you. I knew an orthopedic surgeon who used a doctor loan on a house that was priced significantly below market value. At the time, he was planning to stay in the area for at least the next few years, but putting down  20% would have been a stretch for his purchase. (He found another job two years later in another state).

You’re an investing superstar.

Not having to plop down a significant chunk of your savings on a house allows you to invest the difference to your liking, whether in the stock market, real estate investments, gambling, bonds, P2P lending, or under your mattress. Most mortgage rates run in the 4.5% or less range, so there is some merit in hedging your investing luck/skill elsewhere.

Should you do it? I’d have to argue that most doctors should not get a doctor loan for this reason alone—there are more financially naive doctors than business shark doctors. It’s probably unwise to think that you are an anomaly.

What are some other reasons why doctors should get a doctor loan?

 

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(Photo courtesy of TaxRebate.org.uk)

The fundamentals of mortgage loans – Part 3

fundamentals of mortgage loansThis post is the third part in the series on mortgages and my experiences:

 

Today I will continue where we left off previously with online mortgage lenders, considerations, and what I learned in the process.

To summarize, online mortgage lenders may actually have storefronts in other states, but are licensed to lend in your state. You can poll the top lenders online through Costco’s website or through BankRate.com. I did both in my search. Having multiple offers allows you to have more flexibility and knowledge in the process.

Most of these lenders offer very generic information such as the rate, term, fees, and credits. I would say that the majority of online lenders had very low or NO lenders fees. Many of these lenders even offered lender credit! Let’s go through these in detail:

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Lender fees.

This is the black box in most lending statements. These fees are always convoluted and often masked by terms like origination fees, application fees, processing fees, and underwriting fees. My local lender had all of the above terms. Many of the online lenders had NONE of the fees. This is quite bizarre to see such a wide range of costs. These numbers can run in the hundreds of dollars each, and total in the thousands!

That’s right. Straight out the gate, you can end up spending a few extra thousand dollars depending on which lender you are going through. I asked the online lenders why they can still give borrowers a relatively low rate and have almost no fees, but most of the answers did not seem too convincing:

“We run a very lean operation, and pass on the savings to the consumers.”

“We have a small physical footprint, so our costs are low.”

I also asked for a “Truth in Lending Statement”, which typically outlines various closing costs and fees. One online lender provided a rudimentary form with most of the blanks empty, while the others told me that they no longer provide these statements, given that all loans signed after October 2015 are not mandated to provide one. Instead, there are “Loan Estimate” statements that are provided. However, most of the online lenders were very vague—they all only provided an interest rate plus a certain lender credit given the type of loan requested.

My local lenders were, for some reason, more forthcoming with their expenses. All of them provided me with a “Loan Estimate”. There was some variability in some of the numbers, but certainly gave me a better idea of the closing costs that a mortgage incurred.

The following is a list of common closing fees and my comments:

  • Appraisal fee. This is mandatory, and is a means for your lender to determine whether the property you are purchasing is worth their risk in lending you money. This price is not negotiable as the lender typically chooses the appraiser. There is variability among lenders but I would estimate that it should cost around $500 or less.
  • Title fees. These fees are dependent upon which title company you choose. You can choose which title company to help close the sale. However, depending on how your realtor arranged the sale, the escrow company that handles earnest money may actually be the title company as well. When I placed a deposit of earnest money, the escrow company was the same as the title company. This meant that it would have been very difficult to make other arrangements outside of the predetermined company.
  • Origination fees and Lender fees. This number is negotiable. A portion (or all) of these fees will go to your loan originator as “commission”. Some lenders will be more willing to budge than others on this number depending on how they are paid.

 

What other fees have you seen on your closing cost sheets?

 

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Photo courtesy of Flickr.

The Basics of Home Mortgages and How Not To Get Scammed

the basics of mortgage and how not to get scammedI’m in the process of purchasing a home, and figure that I should document the process that I’m going through, the problems that I’ve encountered, and what to do to get the best deal possible. If anything, I’m sure that it will be helpful for me in the future if I decide to purchase another home.

First off, this series will detail the process of purchasing a residential home through a mortgage lender. If you are purchasing a property for commercial purposes (such as rentals), the process will be different.

 

When do I need a loan?

 

There is an obvious answer for most of us, but there are also plenty of people who are in the position to purchase a property outright. That means a cash deal without having to go through a bank. The advantages of avoid loans altogether include not having to deal with a lender. You can agree on a set price with the seller and close the deal once you agree on a price and finish up any inspections. In contrast, going through a mortgage lender may delay your closing date by several months!

 

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There is also validity in obtaining a mortgage even if you are able to purchase a property with cash. With interest rates as low as they are now, you might even consider investing the difference. The Internet is littered with debates on this subject, so scroll around the web for discussion. I may revisit this debate in the future, but this has less to do with obtaining a mortgage.

 

Where can I get a loan?

 

In general banks and credit unions are the most obvious sources for loans, but these are actually not the most common institutions offering loans. Mortgage lenders and loan originators are individuals who work for certain institutions that are able to secure loans for potential buyers as well. Consider these guys the middlemen in loan dealings. Your real estate agent will likely have a list of agents (and probably their favorite one) who have helped clients secure loans.

 

You can obtain a mortgage through Costco!

 

If you are like the average upper middle class American, you probably have a Costco membership. If you don’t, you can even consider getting one. A Costco Executive membership costs $110 annually. You might save more than that on lender fees.

Costco assists with mortgage lending by pairing you up with potential lenders involved with their program. You can fill in your lending terms and potential lenders will bid for your business. These lenders are not likely to be in your local area, but are all licensed to lend to you.

The motivation behind going through lenders outside of your local area is that they might be able to offer you a better rate and terms than your local lender. Moreover, speaking to multiple lenders will allow you to familiarize yourself with more of the terminology, what terms are negotiable, and how different lenders approach the lending process.

Stay tuned for upcoming installments on mortgages! We will talk about the steps I went through and my experiences with the Costco lenders.

Photo courtesy of Flickr.

A financial plan for busy people

financial plan for busy peopleOne the fundamental rules of sustaining and growing your hard earned money is to create a financial plan and stick with it. I’ve seen all sorts of guidelines and plans from financially independent bloggers. Some plans fit on a 4”x6” index card. Others include extravagant spreadsheets that include Trinity Rule references, real estate investments, tilt, and often brilliant means to reduce your tax burden.

All of these strategies will work in each individual case, particularly for those who stay on top of their finances and methodically track their money. This only works in two basic situations: (1) Your job allows you enough time either during work or after hours to focus on your finances, or (2) You’ve already reached financial independence and aren’t forced to live the cubicle or daily grind to generate income.

 

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This type of lifestyle doesn’t work well for guys who are running to stroke codes all day long or dealing with 60 clinic patients a day. If that is your day job, you probably aren’t going to have much energy after you get home to do much of anything else. If anything, many professionals do the opposite—we vegetate, justify splurge purchases because we “earned it”, and neglect to focus much time to our financial future.

I still have those busy days (almost every day), but I also have tried to simplify my financial strategy to the level that I can relate to and automate.

 

Stick with the plan, but be willing to adjust throughout your working career. 

Some financial principles should be non-negotiable no matter what stage of your career you are in. You must save more than your spend in order to grow your financial stash. Period.

Everything else is variable depending upon your income level and net worth. Here are my principles depending upon your situation:

 

Student and resident (<$80,000)

  1. Pay off at least $2,500 in student loan interest per year. This is a deductible event. If you are accruing interest on your loans, this is the best time to reduce your tax burden. Once your income exceeds the ceiling for student loan interest deduction, you are out of luck.
  2. Contribute to your Roth IRA fully. Remember that a Roth IRA holds post-tax income. The earnings in this vehicle will not be taxed no matter how much they grow. Since the annual contribution amounts are relatively small, you are limited by how much time you have to build up the cash. I knew financially savvy college students who maxed out their Roth IRAs through part-time jobs. Their parents (upper middle class) were willing to max their salaries to give them spending money. Not a bad way to build up your Roth IRA amounts with time.
  3. Keep your Traditional IRA bucket empty. Most doctors and highly paid professionals will exceed the standard Roth IRA limits once they increase their earning potential. You can still contribute to your Roth IRA through backdoor method. If you have no money in your Traditional IRA, the conversion process is much easier, and you can avoid taxes.
  4. Save the rest of your earnings toward repayment of student loans or ancillary investment vehicles. I know a few medical residents who are landlords and generate a reasonable cash flow from their properties. Doesn’t always work out once they graduate and end up moving away.

 

Mid-career professional

  1. Contribute to the maximum limit in all of the investment vehicles available to you. This includes Roth IRAs, 401k/403b plans, Profit-Sharing Plans, and even better, Individual 401k’s. Be wary of profit-sharing plans and the terms. Some plans require you to work a certain minimum number of years before you’re fully vested. This won’t work well if you end up having move between jobs.
  2. Invest in a taxable account. Unfortunately maximizing your tax-deferred and tax-advantaged accounts will unlikely generate enough nest egg for you to retire on. I would roughly assume that a high-income professional would want to retire on at least $100,000 a year. Gotta have those fancy vacations, right? The 4% Trinity rule would say that you need to have $2.5 million in the bank, and that amount needs to be liquid too. It would be tough to build up that amount solely within a 401k.
  3. Buy umbrella insurance. If your net worth minus your protected accounts (401k’s, cash-value insurance…etc) is around $1 million or above, buy some umbrella insurance. The annual premiums won’t likely be much, and can give you more piece of mind. More on this in a later article…
  4. Figure out what other options you would feel comfortable with placing your money to diversify. Is it real estate? Is it stock market? Is it crowd-funding lending? Gambling? Restaurant franchises? This is your chance to make good on the hard work you’ve put in to get to where you’re at.
  5. Track your net worth growth. If you’re going to exceed the federal limit for estate tax, congratulations. You’ve won the game. Spend the rest of your time figuring out how to reduce your estate tax.
  6. Contribute to 529’s if your state allows tax reduction. You can make accounts for your kids, your nieces and your nephews. If you play your cards right, you can potentially have enough for the family.

 

Retirement

  1. At this point, if you played your cards well, you might still be under 60 years old. Perhaps even less than 50. Your money should run on auto-pilot. Work on your estate tax plans.
  2. Stay active. Volunteer. Travel. Start a blog. Spread the gospel. Teach other medical professionals. Do what you’ve always wanted to do.
  3. Stay out of trouble and don’t invest in get-rich schemes, no matter how much you have stashed for your retirement.

That’s it. Basic. Simple. As you become more well-versed in your career, you will have more time to study your finance or whatever else you like.

What other finance plans have your implemented in your strategy?

(Photo courtesy of Flickr).